From Chef Michael Friedman of the Red Hen in Washington, D.C.

Growing up in north Jersey with a dad from the Bronx, I spent plenty of time in Italian red-sauce joints — those great, crowded everyman Jersey places with a multitude of ways to dine. Most had a pizzeria up front, where people could just grab a slice, and a back-room trattoria, where folks would gather to celebrate life. It was all very familial, very convivial, and the food was the same way: big, bold, Sicilian.

When I opened my own place, I wanted to re-create the feeling and the food of those days. And one of the ways I did was with our take on the ubiquitous fra diavolo, or "brother devil," dish. This is usually done with mussels or lobster, but we do ours with chicken thighs. The darker meat is silkier and richer and stands up to the signature Sicilian red pepper, which comes via a mix of fresh bell and jalapeño peppers, dried chile flakes, and paprika. But what really pulls the dish together is the orange juice, the bright acid that punches the flavor through, dancing a bit on the palate and making you even hungrier than you were in the first place. It's a dish that sticks in your memory: Once in a while, I'll sit down and indulge in the fra diavolo after service. That giddy childhood excitement comes over me, and I'm transported back to those days with my father, enjoying the simpler things in life with food and family.

CHICKEN FRA DIAVOLO

1. In a food processor, blend until smooth: 1 red bell pepper, trimmed and large diced; 2 red jalapeños, trimmed and thinly sliced (discard seeds to reduce heat); 6 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed; ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil.

2. Transfer to a bowl and add: 2 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves, 2 Tbsp red-chile flakes, 1 Tbsp ground black pepper, 2 tsp hot smoked paprika, the zest and juice of 2 oranges.

3. Whisk until well blended.

4. Place 12 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs in a container with the marinade. Seal and shake until the chicken is completely covered. Refrigerate 3 hours or overnight.

5. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

6. Line the chicken in an ovenproof baking dish. If you don't have an ovenproof baking dish, a rimmed sheet pan lined with parchment paper will work just as well.

7. Cook until the tops have a golden crust and the juices run clear when pierced, about 45 minutes. A thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chicken should read 165 degrees.

DRINK SUGGESTIONS

From Sebastian Zutant, Beverage Director and Co-Owner of the Red Hen

Fruit-forward elements in the Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé complement the fra diavolo's spicy kick.

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Lucien Albrecht Crémant d\'Alsace Brut Rosé

Virginia's Castle Hill Levity dry cider, made in clay tanks from Albemarle Pippin apples, cools off the devil in the dish.

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Virginia\'s Castle Hill Levity dry cider

DC Brau's El Hefe Speaks, its German-style hefeweizen, is nice and round and plays well with the pepper.

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DC Brau\'s El Hefe Speaks

Published in the March 2015 issue.