How to Really Drink Bourbon

It's a common misconception that bourbon can only be made in Kentucky. Kentuckians like to think only the best bourbons are made in their state, but with the expansion of American craft distilleries, bourbon is being made everywhere from New York to California. Simply put, bourbon is a spirit made from at least 51 percent corn and aged in new charred oak barrels. Production and resting proof are regulated, but most importantly, it must be bottled at 80 proof (40 percent alcohol by volume) or higher. And, of course, made only in the great United States of America.

There are a confounding number of details that distinguish small batch from single barrel and bonded from blended. You need not know all or event most, but to appear competent, there are a few terms to keep at hand. Straight Whiskey: Not necessarily a bourbon, this is a whiskey made from at least 51 percent of any grain. It carries the same proof minimum as bourbon, but straight whiskey also needs to see at least two years in charred new oak barrels, whereas bourbon has no aging requirements. Added color and flavor are shunned in both categories. Single Barrel Bourbon Whiskey: These have been bottled from one barrel only. They're entirely unique in the sense that each vessel has its own temperature and character. Evan Williams specializes in single barrels, most of which are very good, including the latest 2001 edition, a dark, toffee-rich liquid that makes a perfect dessert. Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey: The term for bourbons made from a few select barrels married together for consistency. A good place to start is Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch 2010, which has a bit of sandalwood and a lot of golden pipe tobacco flavor, and might just inspire you to open a leather-bound book.

Tasting is the only way to fully appreciate a spirit's layers and nuances. First, it's fine to dilute the whiskey with a bit of water if a longer, lighter swill is what you desire. Now, without swirling, put your nose in the glass and inhale. On your second whiff, move the glass around. Let your mind grapple at the adjectives Tom Waits might use. Finally, take a sip and let it roll over your tongue, breathing in slightly over it, then swallow. Attempt floral descriptions. Or don't. Repeat for second and third impressions.

Though the juice off the still (what's known as white dog or white whiskey) needs to be up to snuff to begin with, much of whiskey's quality also depends on the barrel aging, blending, and bottling. Essentially, these steps are the stage around which whiskey geeks thrive. Recently, one of the industry's big players, Maker's Mark, began playing around with switching its barrel staves. The result is Maker's 46, the company's first new product since 1958. Great for a long winter hibernation, it's a bit richer and toastier than the original. And one of the oldest and most innovative producers, Buffalo Trace, has even gone so far as to choose specific American oak trees for the barrels in its Single Oak Project, which releases new, limited-edition bourbon batches each year.

A classic, and lovely for cold-weather sipping, this cocktail can be found in Charles H. Baker Jr.'s tome, The Gentleman's Companion. • 2 ounces bourbon (Wild Turkey is a good one for spice and kick) • 3/4 ounces sweet vermouth • 2 teaspoons Cherry Heering • Dash of absinthe Pour ingredients into a mixing glass, add ice, and stir "briskly," as Baker recommends. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

It's often said that chicken-noodle soup is the best cure for the common cold, but that would actually be bourbon milk punch. Anyone who says otherwise should not be trusted. Usually served cold, it's also wonderful warm and can be varied with any number of spices or extras. • 4 parts whole milk • 2 parts bourbon • 1/2 part simple syrup (1:1 sugar and water) • 2 vanilla beans (Madagascar are perfect) • Whole cinnamon, nutmeg, or cloves In a pot on the stove, scrape two vanilla beans into the milk. Stir over low heat for several minutes. Do not let boil or simmer. Remove the beans. If making cold punch, chill the milk, then combine remaining ingredients over ice in a punch bowl. If making hot punch, combine remaining ingredients over the burner and bring up to desired temperature. Garnish with grated cinnamon, nutmeg, and/or cloves.

Best after a day spent in the snow, a toddy is an easy way to impress while her hands and feet are thawing in front of the fire. Bartender Jane Lopes of the newly opened Catbird Seat in Nashville, Tennessee, shared the secret to her recipe. • 1 part fresh lemon juice • 1 part honey • 6 parts water • Orange peel • Cinnamon sticks • Cloves • Several star anise pods • Bourbon Combine all ingredients except bourbon in a pot on the stove. Over low heat, stir until honey is integrated and the mixture is hot. Keep over low heat, covered, for 20 minutes. Upon serving, add 2 ounces of bourbon to a mug and fill with toddy mixture. Garnish with a cinnamon stick. (Spice amounts will vary depending on the batch size.)

One cannot go wrong with a Manhattan. Unless, of course, you'd prefer a Brooklyn. Check out variations on the classic according to Esquire's in-house expert, David Wondrich, here. • 2 parts bourbon • 1 part sweet vermouth • 2 dashes Angostura bitters • Luxardo cherry Stir ingredients over ice in a mixing glass and garnish with the cherry. We ladies (and I bet most of the gents, secretly of course) always appreciate an extra skewer on the side.

Whether for a night out or a weekend away, bourbon is always a good reason to take a break from responsibility. For the abbreviated, urban escape, Post Office in Brooklyn offers an almost entirely American spirits backbar and a prolific cocktail list, most of which can be requested with bourbon. Delilah's in Chicago poses as a punk bar, but it's all twang under the surface, with a ridiculously large bourbon list — it's perhaps the only place you can find Pappy Van Winkle 20-year poured without pretense. Seattle newcomer Canon, run by bartender Jamie Boudreau, boasts a tome full of super-rare bourbons, the likes of which aren't usually found outside Kentucky estate sales and eBay auctions. But if a road trip and the races are more your style, Louisville is the heart of bourbon country, and the best home base for driving around the state to seek out the hard stuff. The "urban bourbon trail" keeps growing longer, and the city has over a dozen exceptional bourbon bars and several burgeoning haute-comfort joints in which to settle, including The Blind Pig, which specializes in swine and the local swill.

It may be that Kentucky produces the lion's share of bourbon, but artisanal distilling has brought new players to the table from all over the country. Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn and Tuthilltown Spirits in upstate New York represent the East Coast with fine examples of homegrown, small-batch bourbon. Also check out Breaking and Entering bourbon from St. George in California or Washington's Woodinville Whiskey, which is releasing the state's largest run of the spirit since Prohibition in November. Meaning it truly is a time for bourbon.